1. What is your book, Help! I’m Covered in Adjectives: Cosmetic Claims & The Consumer – Navigating Science, Regulations, and Myths in the Beauty Industry, 2nd Edition, about?
It’s
an insightful exploration of what cosmetic claims are, how they are made, the regulations
behind them, and how they are developed and substantiated. It examines the
anatomy of claims, the science behind substantiation, and the challenges faced
when developing regulatory compliant claims. It helps to demystify the complex
language used in product marketing. This second edition offers updated content,
including discussions on misinformation, greenwashing, and the role of
influencers, consumers, and even journalists in shaping consumer misconceptions
and perceptions. As a resource it has value for consumers seeking to navigate
the beauty industry with greater awareness, as well as for professionals in
marketing, research and development, and regulatory affairs aiming to deepen
their understanding of cosmetic claims and their implications.
2.
What
inspired you to write it?
In
spring 2019, at the In-Cosmetics Global Meeting in Paris, I hosted my annual
workshop on claims development. The delegates were eager to learn the 'how,
why, what, and when' of cosmetic claims, highlighting the need for a
comprehensive guide. Having worked with many clients, I noticed a common
struggle with the EU’s 2013 claims regulation. Brands faced challenges in
providing evidence and understanding the regulations, needing more than just
basic advice. That’s when the idea for my book was born. I launched the first
edition in the fall of 2019. But as time went on, I realized there were new
challenges emerging – especially with the explosion of misinformation on social
media. So, with the encouragement of colleagues, I updated and rewrote the book
in August of last year, adding more insights to reflect that shift and help
businesses navigate this new landscape. It’s currently available in English and French, and I’m
working on the German and Spanish editions, which will be out soon. It’s really exciting to see it reach a
broader audience!
3.
How
did you become a skincare scientist?
It
all started by accident. After completing my PhD in plant biochemistry, I found
myself in Paris, thanks to an opportunity with a visiting professor from the
Pasteur Institute studying a skin disorder. While there, LVMH Dior invited me
to collaborate on their research on the Capture project. Suddenly, I was thrust
into the world of cosmetic science—a field I hadn’t expected but quickly grew passionate about. Reflecting
back, it feels like fate. I remember a biology class in school, where we discussed
careers in chemistry and biology. I was intrigued by research in the field of fragrances, and also the Pasteur Institute. My teacher mocked me,
saying only the “intelligent” went there—well, I did, and that’s where it all began.
4.
You
write about the misinformation that is out there in regard to cosmetic company
claims about their products. What types of things do they tend to fudge?
While
EU law requires compliance with the six claims criteria (Legal, Truthful,
Evidence, Honest, Fair, Informed Decision), many claims, especially the
free-from claims can be tricky for brands, as they must not in any way
denigrate ingredients that are legally permitted or demean brands that don’t
use free-from claims. We often see free-from claims for ingredients which are
not legally permitted, so the claim becomes a futile exercise, and some brands
have been caught out by this. Another area is not having sufficient numbers of
volunteers enrolled in a study be it clinical or consumer based. Extrapolating
data from an ingredient suppliers data sheet is very common indeed, and is poor
science and illogical if you think about it. Other examples are the not-tested-on-animals
claim, which again in the EU makes no sense as animal testing has been banned
for decades. Finally, those unapproved certification labels which are just a
money-making exercise for some providers. Much of the fudging, at least in the
EU, is down to ignorance and not doing the homework!
5.
What
do consumers need to do to make sure they are using products that are safe?
When
it comes to ensuring that the cosmetics you’re using are safe, there are a few simple steps to follow.
First, always check if the product is properly regulated by the relevant
authorities, like the FDA in the USA or similar agencies elsewhere. These
agencies ensure the products meet safety standards. Next, it’s super important to review the
ingredient list. The most reliable and factual resource I can recommend is COSMILE. If you have any allergies or sensitivities, be cautious
and get checked out by your doctor.
Avoid using products recommended by friends or social media, as what might be
right for their dry skin may not be right for yours! I also recommend doing a
little research on the brand. Look at reviews and see what other consumers are
saying. It’s always a good idea to avoid products
with outlandish claims that sound too good to be true – they often aren’t backed by science.
Finally, stay informed about any product recalls or safety
alerts. Keeping up with industry news can help you avoid products that could
pose a risk. Simple steps like these can really go a long way in making sure
your beauty routine is not only effective but safe!
6.
Are there a lot of claims about cosmetic products being green
and good for the environment that are fake?
Absolutely! Greenwashing has become a major issue across
many industries, including fashion, cars, and of course, cosmetics, where
misleading claims about sustainability and eco-friendliness are unfortunately
all too common. Fortunately, both the EU and the UK have taken strong action to
crack down on these deceptive practices, which includes ‘influencers’. Their
consumer marketing authorities are actively enforcing regulations to ensure
that brands can't make unsupported claims about being “green” or “sustainable”
without proof. This has forced many ingredient suppliers and brands to become
much more transparent, particularly when it comes to sourcing, traceability,
and environmental impact. As a result, we’re
seeing more companies trying to align their efforts with the UN’s sustainability goals, which is a
step in the right direction. While there’s
still a long way to go before the industry becomes fully sustainable, the
increased pressure for accountability has definitely sparked positive changes.
It's encouraging to see brands working to improve their environmental footprint
and ensuring their claims are backed by real, verifiable actions.
7.
Do you blame influencers for helping to spread false cosmetic
claims?
Influencers can certainly play a role in spreading
misinformation about cosmetic products, but it's important to recognize that
the responsibility doesn't fall entirely on them. Many influencers, especially
those with large followings, are often promoting products for commercial gain
or brand partnerships. In many cases, they may not have the expertise to
critically evaluate the products they endorse or fully understand the science
behind them. This can lead to exaggerated or misleading claims about
effectiveness and safety, which then starts the snowball rolling. However, the
responsibility also lies with brands and companies that may encourage
influencers to make bold claims without proper evidence. This would be illegal
in the EU. Many influencers are not always given the proper guidance on how to
communicate the truth about the products they promote. While influencers can
contribute to misinformation, it's a larger issue of accountability across the
entire industry, including brands, regulatory bodies, and all media including
social media platforms, which all need to be more proactive in ensuring
truthful marketing.
8.
What level of
transparency exists in today’s landscape of cosmetic advertising?
In the USA, cosmetic advertising is mainly regulated by the
Federal Trade Commission (FTC), which ensures that ads are truthful and not
misleading. The FTC requires that any claims made in ads—such as effectiveness
or safety—be backed by solid evidence. However, the FDA oversees the safety and
labeling of cosmetics, not the advertising claims themselves. In contrast, the
UK and EU have much stricter regulations. In these regions, advertising claims
must be substantiated with scientific and/or substantial consumer proof, and
there are robust rules against misleading marketing laid down by the
advertising standards authorities. Overall, the UK/EU seems to offers stronger
consumer protection in terms of transparency and truthful advertising, while
the USA has more flexibility, which can sometimes lead to misleading claims
slipping through the cracks, and you see many adverts in the USA with the
opaque statement ‘these statements have not been evaluated by the Food and Drug
Administration’. This would never be permitted here in the UK/EU. In the UK
complaints about advertising are posted online by the ASA and serve as an
education tool for both the consumer as well as industry. Most EU countries
have a similar format.
About The Author: Theresa M. Callaghan, Ph.D. is a leading bio-chemist and skincare scientist with over 35 years of experience in international corporate skincare research. She has also had more than 150 scientific and technical articles published. She sits on the scientific editorial review board of the International Journal of Cosmetic Science, and is an active member of a number of professional societies including the British Herbal Medical Association, & the Scandinavian Society of Cosmetic Scientists. She is also an advisor to TKS Science Publisher; (HPC Today Journal) is Scientific Editor at EuroCosmetics Magazine, as well as writing a monthly column on Claims Insights for them. She contributes a monthly article to BEAUTYSTREAMS on ingredient technologies.
Over 15 years ago, she set up a cosmetics scientific development consulting business, working with ingredient suppliers, brands, and also service providers in clinical and pre-clinical testing and research. Callaghan, who has been published by The Guardian, has also been a guest lecturer at the University of Sunderland school of Pharmacy and Cosmetic Sciences (2020 and 2021). Born and raised in Wales, she now resides in Germany. For more information, please consult: www.ccintl.edu.
“Biochemist Callaghan delves into the history of the cosmetics business-and cosmetic claims development-in hopes of demystifying an industry where, she writes, "selling hope" reigns supreme. Aimed at consumers, influencers, and journalists, Callaghan's informative guide delivers a glimpse into the inner workings of the business, covering modern technology's impact on cosmetic product development, ethical beauty standards, the research that goes into substantiating cosmetic claims, and more. Callaghan also confronts "fundamental questions about our relationship with cosmetics and the pursuit of beauty," with a heavy emphasis on the science driving the industry.
“Callaghan's guide is enlightening, as she addresses how to differentiate between fact and fiction and "make informed decisions about... skincare regimen[s]." Her goal with this updated edition is to "[bridge] the gap between the cosmetic Counter and the laboratory, and she accomplishes that objective with flying colors.
“From a breakdown of the different types of cosmetic
claims-ranging from lifestyle to ingredient to sensory-to instruction on the
anatomy of skin, Callaghan's easy-to-read text covers all the bases, teaching
consumers the ins and outs of an admittedly complex business. She consistently
revisits safe and ethical product development, asserting that "product
development pathways have to be turned on their head and re-drawn," and is
a staunch advocate for rigorous scientific standards, arguing that "time
and money to build a body of evidence has to be a first priority"
--Publishers Weekly Booklife
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